2013 PerSe La Craie Gualtallary Mendoza

The 2013 La Craie (the chalk) can be the most backward and austere of the three siblings, a tantalizing blend of Malbec and Cabernet Franc, but to be honest, it looks like the influence of the Cabernet, much more abundant here (around 35%), is a lot less noticeable than in the Francesa, where it represents some 3% or so of the blend. Here the place has a much stronger voice than the variety. The grapes are really assembled together and speak in the same voice. The two varieties were fermented together in open barrels with punching down followed by aging in those same barrels. The aromas are complex, elegant and ever-changing with a mix of wild flowers, chalk dust, orange peel and some spices. The palate is medium-bodied, or it feels so, because there is power and concentration yet the wine feels light given it has ultra-refined tannins and great acidity to make the finish extremely long. The price is very good for the quality it delivers.Only 925 bottles were filled in February 2015. I retasted the 2012, the first vintage, from a much warmer year, and it's evolving at a glacial pace.

Unlike Iubileus, La Craie comes from Edy del Popolo's own 1.6-hectare vineyard in Gualtallary. It's a blend of Malbec with 35% Cabernet Franc and shows the coolness of the season with focus, elegance and concentration. Smoky black fruits, lots of chalky bite and a green pepper undertone, this fulfils the promise of the first release. Drink: 2017-24