2012 Gran Enemigo Mendoza

The 2012 El Gran Enemigo is a blend of some 40% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% each Cabernet Franc and Merlot, quite a different blend from the 2011 vintage, but also all from Gualtallary in the Uco Valley. The idea for this blend is to only use grapes from limestone soils, always a blend, while the single vineyard from Gualtallary is basically a varietal Cabernet Franc. 2012 was a little cooler than 2011, but there's a lot more Malbec here, and there are less herbal aromas and more floral tones. There's hardly any oak in these wines now; they are aged in used, well-seasoned, neutral oak barrels and then transferred to cement vats. It feels purer, more defined, aromatic and subtle. This is really superb, with incredible citric acidity that makes you salivate. It keeps changing in the glass, one minute giving more herbal notes, the following minute turning floral, spicier, growing in the glass and developing new nuances. This is an impressive, age-worthy blend, with the telltale chalky tannins and a supple finish. 7,000 bottles produced.

This Cabernet Franc- based red contains lesser percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, all of it grown on limestone soils in Gualtallary. It's a big, powerful wine that needs time. Mint, dried Mediterranean herbs, whole bunch spices and rich, compact tannins. 2016-24.

Bright ruby-red. Pungent aromas of currant, tobacco, licorice, cocoa powder, spices and violet. Very concentrated, broad and dry, in a Bordeaux style. Conveys an utterly seamless texture to the powerful flavors of dark berries, cocoa powder, dried herbs, graphite and mocha oak. Seriously tannic, structured wine with a terrific future. My sample steadily gained in sweetness with extended aeration.