2020 Gigondas La Colline Domaine des Bosquets

Lurid ruby. Hugely perfumed, mineral- and spice-accented red berry liqueur, cherry-cola incense and garrigue qualities on the sharply delineated nose. It offers vibrant, palate-staining cherry preserve, Chambord, boysenberry, floral pastille and Moroccan spice flavors that show uncanny energy for their depth. The spice and floral notes dominate a strikingly long, sappy finish framed by silky, finely polished tannins.

The 2020 Gigondas La Colline ratchets up the intensity and is just about as good as it gets. Mulled cherries, Provençal garrigue, licorice, scorched earth, and spice flow to a full-bodied, beautifully textured, expansive Gigondas with awesome tannins and perfect balance. This powerful, concentrated, magical Gigondas can be enjoyed any time over the coming 15-20 years. As always, this cuvée is all Grenache from limestone soils at an elevation of 350 meters that was 70% destemmed and vinified in concrete tanks. Malolactic fermentation occurred in barrel, and the élevage is in 2- to 4-year-old demi-muids.

Despite its density, this is friendly and approachable now, with sappy plum, crushed cherry and balsamic-steeped plum flavors that are round and rich on the palate, underscored by sweet spice, incense and tea. Reveals warm earth and crushed rock notes that provide a savory counterpoint, with salty mineral elements coursing through the lengthy finish. Delicious.