2017 Barolo Vignarionda Arnaldo Rivera

Bright, ripe aromas of strawberries and dried flowers follow through to a medium body with firm, polished tannins that show length and focus. Give it two or three years to come together.

From the prized MGA within Serralunga d’Abla, the 2017 Barolo Vignarionda was aged for 32 months in French oak tonneaux. The 2017 is lifted with graphite-tinged aromas of pencil shavings, kirsch, dried roses, and tar. It had a full structure, with drying tannins, savory cherry pit, and dried herbs. Hold 3-5 years and drink 2024-2040.

This is packed with cherry and berry fruit, along with earth, wild herb and tobacco notes, showing terrific harmony and intensity. The tannins are firm, yet ripe and well-integrated, and the finish echoes the fruit, picking up a mineral element. Fine length. Best from 2024 through 2042. —B.S.

Vignarionda is one of the most celebrated MGAs, not only in Serralunga but in the entire Barolo DOCG. This interpretation of the 2017 vintage is precise and fresh. There is no garnet tinge in the glass and the nose is elegant, displaying cedar wood and smoke, floral notes, then fresh touches reminiscent of citrus. Firm and chalky, the tannins are well integrated with the acidity, and there's strawberry pulp over the bones of the structure which balances the wine. It needs only to integrate the oak, which will come with further bottle ageing.

The most structured and powerful of the single-vineyard expressions from Arnaldo Rivera is this 3,400-bottle release from Serralunga d'Alba. The 2017 Barolo Vignarionda opens to plum and blackberry, but the wine leaves ample room for oak-driven flavors of cedar, spice and spent ember. The signs of the territory are also evident, thanks to iron ore, crushed slate and magnesium-rich tones of clay or terracotta. When you're ready to uncork it in a few years, this will be a fine steak Barolo.