2012 Ermitage Ex-Voto Rouge Guigal

The 2012 Hermitage Ex Voto (which I suspect won't be produced again until 2015) was bottled in January of this year and it's a big, voluptuous beauty that's loaded with fruit and texture. Crème de cassis, black raspberries, crushed rocks and a touch of beef blood all soar from the glass of this beauty, which hits the palate with a wealth of sweet fruit, building, ripe tannin and blockbuster length. Liquid Viagra would suffice as a descriptor for this wine, and while it's already impossible to resist today, it will age effortlessly for 25 or more years.

With richer, creamier and more spicy aromas, this has a very taut, composed and more reserved feel on the nose and palate than many. I love the fine and powdery tannin texture, the heaps of detail and the charming pepper and spice character. A compressed and elegant and more formal style of syrah. This is a very classy wine with great depth and elegance. The impression is of a precise, long and even wine, just starting out on a long ride. Best from 2018 and for more than a decade thereafter.

Tightly focused and still a touch closed, with roasted alder and juniper notes holding the core of crushed plum and raspberry fruit flavors in check for now. There's a lovely bolt of iron through the finish, along with dried anise and fruitcake tones, while energetic acidity adds length and class to the overall feel. Should settle in nicely with a touch more cellaring, as there's tons of fruit in reserve here. A beauty. Best from 2018 through 2035. From France.-J.M

Inky ruby. Black currant, boysenberry, vanilla and smoky Indian spices on the intensely perfumed, mineral-tinged nose. Sweet, broad and surprisingly energetic for its heft, offering sappy dark fruit liqueur, violet pastille, fruitcake and spicecake flavors that show no rough edges. The floral and spice notes build steadily on a gently tannic, impressively long finish that shows noteworthy energy and mineral-driven tenacity.

This may or may not be bottled separately. (The 2010 will be bottled only in February 2014.) Firm and dry on the end though some big black fruit sweetness on the palate. Lots of tannin on the end.