2017 Gigondas Domaine Raspail-Ay

Tasted blind. Nappyish reduction makes the nose a little wild, but the palate bursts forth with generous, ripe red-fruit and milk-chocolate character. Chewy and furry on the finish, but not aggressively so, and the quality of fruit on the palate suggests that both nose and structure will improve with time. (RH) Drink 2021-2031

The 2017 Gigondas is a beauty, and Southern Rhône lovers owe it to themselves to have bottles of Raspail-Ay in their cellar. A blend of 70% Grenache, 23% Syrah, and the rest Mourvèdre, brought up all in very old foudres, it offers a vivid ruby color as well as a smorgasbord of Provençal goodness in its kirsch, sappy flowers, incense, ground pepper, and obvious minerality. Reminding me of the 1990 with its sexy, charming character, this concentrated, perfectly balanced effort will drink nicely with short-term cellaring and keep for two decades. Unfortunately, no 2018 was submitted.