2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1. Cru Les Perrieres Henri Boillot

A mild touch of reduction isn't sufficient to completely mask the cool and smoky aromas of floral, citrus peel and apple scents. As one would reasonably expect there is more volume and intensity to the more evidently mineral-inflected medium weight flavors that possess both excellent richness and volume, all wrapped in a saline and tension filled finish that is notably dry but not really austere. Note that this built-to-age effort will require at least some patience.

Pale, bright yellow. Oily peach nectar, hazelnut oil and Poire William on the nose and in the mouth. Round and plush but with a firm dusting of stony minerality energizing the middle palate. Manages to be both voluptuous and chewy, giving the wine striking precision for its size. The superb, slowly mounting finish is subtle and long. These 48-year-old vines produced just 35 hectoliters per hectare, due in part to some millerandage.