2012 Barrua Agricola Punica, Sardegna

I thought the 2011 was the best ever from this stylish wine producer in Sardinia. But the 2012 is clearly better showing vivid aromas of currants, dried cherry, rosemary, citrus and dried chili. Full body, dense but not heavy center palate, and a long savory, mushroom, mahogany and berry aftertaste. A blend of local varieties with a hint of international ones. Yeah. Drink or hold.

Carignan ripens easily in the southwest corner of Sardinia, warmed by the hot scirocco winds from Africa, cooled as the evening temperatures drop, keeping the grapes fresh. Barrua's flavors of black and red fruits are juicy and concentrated, layered with notes of garrigue and black spice. A match for slow-cooked lamb.

Harmonious and medium-bodied, with graphite and Asian five-spice powder accents lacing the bright mulberry, plum, grilled herb and smoky mineral flavors. Light, chalky tannins emerge on the finish. Carignano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2022. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. -AN