2010 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne Côte-Brune Guigal

As with the other two single-parcel Cote Roties, the 2010 Cote Rotie La Landonne is pure perfection in a glass. An incredibly massive, muscular, full-bodied effort, it has an insane amount of structure to go with an equal amount of concentrated fruit. Cassis, smoked bacon, coffee bean, cracked pepper and liquid rock-like qualities are all present here, and it hits the palate with a chiseled, focused textured, building tannin and terrific length. It's the most backward of the 2010s and will require a decade of cellaring, but will keep for about as long as you'd like to hold onto bottles.

Terrifically dense, with tightly coiled flavors of warm ganache, fig paste and blackberry confiture. Shows plenty of range as well, with well-embedded notes of bay, chestnut, juniper, black tea and charcoal. This is intensely grippy through the fine-grained and lengthy finish. Should age marvelously and slowly. Best from 2017 through 2040. From France.-J.M.

Glass-staining ruby. Potent smoke- and spice-accented black and blue fruit aromas are complicated by sexy potpourri and incense nuances that build with aeration. Sweet, penetrating blackberry and cherry liqueur flavors stain the palate, with licorice pastille and violet qualities coming in slowly. Rich yet lively and precise, finishing with outstanding energy and chewy tannins that frame the wine's lush, alluringly sweet fruit. - Josh Raynolds

Dark purple. A heady, explosively perfumed bouquet displays scents of ripe blueberry, cherry- cola, incense and smoked meat, with an intense spicy quality adding lift. Stains the palate with potent dark fruit liqueur and candied violet flavors that are sharpened and lifted by juicy acidity. Youthfully firm tannins build through a finish that strongly repeats the blue fruit and floral qualities. This one is built for the ages.

Rå, frugtig, masser af brændt karakter samt hint af støv. Ekstrem længde og dybde. Jeg overgiver mig trods mit tidligere uheldige møde med Guigal. Verdensklasse.