2001 Cava Enoteca Brut Nature Gramona

This is what Cava can be about, 75% Xarel-lo and 25% Macabeo with 12 years on lees and no dosage, creating a lean, penetrating wine, creamy, leesy, smoky, and very long on the finish. The project was launched with the 2000; also available is the Brut for a richer approach. Drink 2016-2012.

Aromas of golden, honey-coated white toast, complemented by aromas of peat, praline and dried herbs. It's crisp and refined, with a fine mousse and an elegantly aged finish.

The 2001 Enoteca Gramona Brut Nature Gran Reserva was put in bottle in January 2002 and was disgorged in December 2014, a very long aging time for Cava standards. It's a blend of 75% Xarello and the rest is Macabeo and there is no liqueur d'expédition (Brut Nature). The long aging places the wine in the category of Gran Reserva and the process is kept as traditional as it gets, with the bottles sealed by cork instead of crown stoppers. 1,750 bottles produced. It's a great Cava, but the price seems a bit over the top. The aromas feel more reticent (perhaps the lack of dosage) and you get more balsamic hints and notes of aromatic herbs, mineral touches of camphor and petrol, nuts and bread dough. The palate is quite sharp, with very good acidity, lively with subtle complexity. I prefer this to the 2000. It would be very interesting to see how this wine evolves now that is disgorged, as the wine seems to grown in the glass and get better and better with time.