2014 Charmes-Chambetin Grand Cru Les Mazoyères La Vougeraie 300 cl.

Expressive dark berry fruit on the nose. The palate has some weight and lashings of dark cherry fruit, with decent length to boot. A masculine style of Pinot Noir with big ageing potential. Complex and fascinating.

Bright purple, rich and juicy but also a suggestion of vegetal. Perhaps this is more an aspect of some whole bunches. There is impressive deep dark fruit made livelier by the minerals of the whole bunch approach. This makes for a very complete and very attractive wine.

The 2014 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru includes 80% whole cluster fruit this year, a high percentage due to the age of the vines planted in 1902. There is fine delineation here, precise black cherry and cranberry scents with a touch of cold granite. It is a nose that demands respect, deservedly so. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple black and red fruit, very pure and smooth with a graceful, marmalade- tinged finish that lingers. This should grow up to be a very seductive, comely Charmes-Chambertin with a long future ahead.

"These are the oldest vines at the domaine, planted in 1902 and located entirely in Charmes- Mazoyères. It's quite an oaky wine, but the staves are balanced by fruit power, texture and concentration. Spicy, bold and full of vigour, it's an unusually intense Charmes. 2019-30.

Healthy dark red. Very ripe aromas of blackberry, blueberry and licorice. The richest and largest-scaled of these 2014s to this point, displaying very concentrated but primary flavors of medicinal black cherry, blackberry, menthol and minerals. Big, dusty tannins are nicely supported by brooding black fruits on the very long, rising finish. The grapes here are always affected by millerandage and there are rarely any bad berries, Vincent told me, adding that this cuvée is always the easiest to vinify as well as "our most concentrated wine." This vineyard is the source of Domaine de la Vougeraie's massale selection for replanting.