2018 Riesling Reiterpfad Grand Cru Pfalz Dr. Bürklin-Wolf

This once again originates in the portion of Reiterpfad known as In der Hohl, one of two sectors within the Reiterpfad Einzellage that the VDP deems capable of generating Grosse Gewächse, but Bürklin-Wolf’s label continues to prominently display just “Reiterpfad.” To be more specific might convey a misleading impression, because In der Hohl is the same sector that informed the very first, 1994 Bürklin-Wolf Reiterpfad G.C., and the estate wants to make this continuity clear. White peach and grapefruit on the nose reemerge with luscious and brightly juicy abundance on a flatteringly silken palate. At the same time, sea breeze scents transform into alkaline accents and mouthwatering salinity, while a savory suggestion of clam stock further stimulates the salivary glands. Piquancy of peach kernel and hazelnut add invigorating counterpoint to a vibrant, terrifically persistent finish equally resonant in fruity, mineral and animal registers. Amazingly, Libelli testifies that this stunner had him shaking his head in disappointment early in its evolution, leading him to fear that vine stress in this especially warm site had taken a toll. I already give this wine the edge vis-à-vis its lovely vintage 2014 counterpart, and with time I expect it to challenge the amazing 2001 Reiterpfad that I was privileged to taste the evening before I canvassed the estate’s young 2018s. Bottling was due at the end of 2019 or the beginning of 2020. (Look for an upcoming report on Bürklin-Wolf’s 25 years of bottling Reiterpfad.)