2017 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Blain-Gagnard

(from 3 separate parcels that aggregate only .2 ha). There is a whisper of exoticism to the super-fresh and spicy white peach and yellow orchard fruit aromas that are trimmed in subtle mandarin orange nuances. The moderately powerful broad- shouldered flavors display fine richness as well as an attractive palate impression while delivering a mouth coating and solidly long finish. While this is not especially dense and will need to add depth, I like the delivery and in particular the lingering and refreshingly dry backend.

Pale colour, backward nose with a touch of sulphur. Then some elegance of fruit, very much white fruit, a bit more than middleweight. This is a vineyard which suffers if picked too ripe. The finish has plenty of detail and a lively, reductive freshness at the back. The fruit is marginally exotic but in balance. Tasted: October 2018.