2017 Chablis 1. Cru Montee de Tonnerre La Chablisienne

The 2017 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is one of the highlights in this range from La Chablisienne. Readers will find an unusually open-knit Montée de Tonnerre endowed with a compelling interplay of textural depth and precision. Lemon confit, apricot, mint and pretty floral overtones are all woven together nicely.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is showing well, opening in the glass with aromas of crisp green apple, citrus oil, white flowers, pastry cream and smoke. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, broad-shouldered and powerful, with a deep core of ripe fruit, bright acids and saline finish. Reserved without being austere, it will reward some bottle age. 2023-2037 .

Some very ripe fruit here with melon, mangoes, peaches and yellow citrus fruit, all intermingling. The palate has a smooth, supple and fleshy core of attractively ripe peaches and pears. Drink or hold.

Moderate wood stops just short of intruding on the appeal of the otherwise intensely floral nose that is liberally laced with notes of oyster shell, iodine and lemon rind nuances. There is a lovely sense of refinement to the restrained and discreetly mineral-inflected flavors that deliver fine persistence and precision on the saliva-inducing finale. Excellent potential. (91- 93)/2023+ .