2015 Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva Produttori del Barbares

This small cooperative goes from strength to strength under the dynamic management of Aldo Vacca. Montestefano is one of the top sites in the commune of Barbaresco. The nose is still reserved, but there are rich red fruits lurking. Very concentrated on the palate, this is lush and approachable, although one senses there is much in reserve, with excellent ageing potential. It's taut and imposing, with a finish that's tangy and persistent. Drinking Window 2021 - 2038.

This is the last wine I tasted in this group of nine from Produttori del Barbaresco. The reason I placed the 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano last is because it is usually considered to be the most powerful and determined in the flight. However, when you really get down to it, this vintage is more tight, streamlined and ethereal than expected. It is saving the best for later, and indeed, the wine is poised to evolve and open fully many years from now. There is a note of shyness here or restraint. Exactly 16,036 bottles were made, and this Riserva demands patience.

This is supple and expressive, featuring strawberry, cherry, floral and freshly cut hay flavors on an elegant frame, undergirded by a stiff backbone of tannins, with racy acidity and a finish that melds the ripe fruity component with the structure. Tar, tobacco and licorice accents linger. Best from 2023 through 2045. -B.S.