2015 Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Quarts La Soufrandière

(from east/southeast-facing 45-to-80-year-old vines on hard Bajocian limestone at the top of a very steep slope): Bright medium yellow. Much more classic and subdued on the nose than the Longeays, relatively speaking, with its superripe but reticent yellow peach and ripe citrus flavors showing more mineral verve and less exotic character. Then juicy and penetrating in the mouth, displaying lovely, almost shocking acidity and excellent lemon-limey lift. With its bulletproof texture, this wine is almost painful today (there's also some CO2 to be absorbed) and really needs a couple more years of cellaring. Made from vines harvested on August 28 and 30; this may be a classic example of how the very hot last days of August and a strong south wind from North Africa concentrated both sugars and acids in many vineyards. Jean-Philippe Bret noted that the ground here stays moist even under very dry conditions owing to the organic life in the soil. Finishes with huge chewy extract and palate- saturating length. Drink: 2018 - 2025. -- Stephen Tanzer

A pungent nose of wood and strong reduction render the nose presently unreadable Otherwise there is fine energy and volume to the delicious and opulently textured medium weight flavors that coat the palate with dry extract while delivering better depth on the longer and somewhat better balanced finale.