2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Les Mazoyères La Vougeraie

Sylvie Poillot says these vines are likely around 105 years old. Official papers are marked "999", meaning no official date is recorded with the registrar. The old vine material shows beautifully here with dense layers of black plums and blueberries topped off with savory spice. (Again, 100% whole cluster here.) The full body shows seamless structural lift and delivers a viscerally mineral finish.

100% whole bunch. A noble crimson in colour. The whole bunches infuse the otherwise velvet textured deep red fruit, spreading the fruit right across the palate. There is both delicacy of fruit and clearly intensity at the same time. Very special as ever.

(100% whole clusters). Once again there is plenty of floral influence to the spicy aromas of both red and black fruit, warm earth and a hint of forest floor. The intense and impressively dense broad-shouldered flavors possess an abundance of sappy dry extract that buffers the even firmer yet also fine tannins shaping the lingering, powerful and equally austere finish. This excellent ageworthy effort is quite powerful and a wine that will need extended cellaring.

The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru escaped any frost and did not require sorting. Containing 100% whole bunch, it has a taut and fresh bouquet with raspberry, blackcberry and wild hedgerow aromas, a touch of pencil lead coming through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, good grip, a Charmes-Chambertin with firm grip on the saline finish. Maybe I am seeking a bit more "charm" although that may develop with time.