2013 Porseleinberg Syrah Swartland Boekenhoutskloof

The fourth vintage from this picturesque site on steep slopes. Aged in foudres and concrete eggs, it's all about the intensity and focus of the fruit: focused, dense and compact with thick tannins and the power and structure to age. A Cape classic in the making.

Syrah fra det kølige Porseleinberg, stik syd for Swartslands 'innovationscentral' Riebeek Kasteel. Boekenhoutskloofs vinmager på stedet hedder Callie Louw, og han er malende beskrevet som vinmagernes Che Guevara. 16 ha meget gamle syrahstokke og nytilplantninger giver vindhærget og kølig frugt, som helklasegæres i 'betonæg' og store træfade. Stokkene kæmper mod naturlig græsvækst i markerne med udsigt over Swartlands fladlandskornmarker, og høsten foregår typisk tidligere end hos de mere kommercielt indstillede firmaer fra Stellenbosch og Franschhoek, som køber druer i området. Inciterende os af tørret røget rådyrkød, liljer, tørret hindbær og jod. Strukturelt forbavsende tæt på côte rôtie, kølig, syrestyret, bidsk og næsten burgundisk. Hatten af og bøj dig i støvet!

The 2013 Porseleinberg uses whole bunch fruit and is matured 60% in foudre and 40% in concrete eggs. Winemaker Callie Louw has fashioned a wine that has a very composed, quite intense and voluminous bouquet - black cherries and iris, with less of the violets and more a brooding marine influence that with aeration takes control of the aromatics. The delineation here is very impressive. The palate is grippy on the entry, the terroir permeating this Syrah from start to finish. With a Cornas- like brutishness counterpoised with stunning delineation and focus, this is a serious Syrah for the Syrah Swartland afficionado. It has the presence to last 15-20 years and represents one of the region's best contributions to the vintage. Good luck finding a bottle!

Red This has a core of raspberry, boysenberry and blackberry fruit waiting to burst out, harnessed for now by graphite-edged grip. Loads of black tea, violet and anise details fill in the background, while the finish ripples with acidity. Youthfully coiled, showing superb energy throughout. Syrah. Best from 2018 through 2027.-J.M.