2008 Herzog Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese 1.L.Müller-Catoir 37,5cl

Deep copper or light bronze in color,. Muller-Catoir's 2010 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese reflects one of those rare occasions when this grape has become heavily botrytized as opposed to spontaneously desiccated. Creamy in feel and almost gelatinously thick, it also resembles an Esszencia in its juxtaposition of apricot preserves with fresh lemon and its almost magical weightlessness, energy, and discord-free standoff of around 300 grams of residual sugar and an almost ludicrous and frightening 22.8 grams acidity. Pungently smoky evocations of botrytis waft throughout; and a Rieslaner-like flavor of glazed pineapple joins in on a finish of rapier length, and sharp penetration. As if all this weren't enough, there is a saliva-inducing salinity there that won-t quit. I debated how many points to deduct for the fact that this left my teeth feeling rubbery, but that peculiar impression in no way put me off from craving the next sip! Plan on following this for three or four decades, those of you young enough!