2020 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville 300 cl.

Næsten identisk næse med Champans, men bare mere intens. Kold stål, kalkværk, ribs, granatæble supplerer, supermørk vin, der sender signaler om overmodenhed og voldekstraktion, men intet kunne være længere fra sandheden. Naturligt flydende koncentration og smygende lækker satintannin, grandeur når det er bedst og mest burgundisk. En gigant i støbeskeen.

The 2020 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru was picked around 23 August. It has a highly perfumed bouquet with rose petals, red cherries, raspberry and incenses, beautifully defined and wonderfully controlled. The palate also conveys a sense of effortlessness that is utterly beguiling. Very harmonious, balletically-poised thanks to its fine bead of acidity, this Clos des Ducs unfurls in the glass with a lilting, very pure and almost balletic finish. Quite saline on the aftertaste such that it urges you back for another sip. Sophisticated (as usual) yet delicious.

(a monopole that measures 2.15 ha). An exuberantly floral nose combines notes of rose petal, violet, lavender, earth, clove and black cherry liqueur. The almost painfully intense, sappy and muscular big-bodied mouth coating flavors brim with minerality on the explosively long and balanced finish that is less youthfully austere than usual. Even so, the supporting tannins are prominent and leave no doubt that this is going to mature gracefully if slowly. This stunningly good Clos des Ducs is a clear candidate for the best Côte de Beaune red in the 2020 vintage.

Pure deep crimson purple. Like the Champans, the nose here is also restrained though obviously with density to follow, when it is ready. The fruit swells across the palate, almost lush in the middle, some tannins too, firm at the finish. This is still very backward and has not completely filled out its framework yet. Maybe just a little riper than the perfect balance. Will be the last to be bottled, and has all the component parts to make a great wine.

93-95P+: The most reserved wine in the cellar is the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, a promising young wine that unwinds in the glass with aromas of red cherries and raspberries mingled with warm spices, rose petals, raw cocoa and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, powerful and concentrated, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a youthfully tightly wound core, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish. It's a brilliant effort that will take some time to unwind.