2020 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru La Vougeraie

Coming from three parcels averaging 70 years in age, this Bonnes Mares has a head-turning nose. As with many of Vougeraie's wines in 2020, this was fermented entirely with whole clusters. Tasting of black plums, licorice and black tea leaves, the dense mid-palate is framed by vivid acidity and lightly dry tannins. The intensity and purity are beguiling.

100% whole bunch. More purple than crimson. The whole bunches are hidden by the beautifully heady style of the bouquet. Spend time over this bouquet which is hauntingly fine, with a wealth of fruit that never steps out of line. Fresh red fruit notes ta the finish, just the right point of acidity, a little orange blossom, but above all finesse and persistence.

(from vines near the Morey border, 50% of which were planted in 1902; 100% whole clusters). An exceptionally spicy nose is, remarkably enough, even more floral with its beautifully layered aromas of red currant, dark raspberry, plum and plenty of earth character. The mouth coating, powerful and muscular big-bodied flavors possess superb length on the sappy, compact and very serious finale that are expressly built-to-age. This is excellent with the development potential to match.

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has 100% whole bunch, though stems neatly enmeshed on the nose with hints of blueberry and cassis infusing the red fruit. A little timid at the moment, it will open with bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity, just a little chewiness on the entry. Structured on the finish, this is quite a "serious" Bonnes-Mares that just needs to muster more charm on the finish.