2013 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville Magnum

Not surprisingly, the 2013 Volnay Clos des Ducs is the most tannic and reticent of these wines. I very much like the sense of energy here, but it's going to take at least a few years for the contours to soften. The 2013 will always show the signatures of the late harvest and cold year, so, like all these wines, it will appeal most to readers with classically leaning palates. - Antonio Galloni

(a monopole that measures 2.15 ha). A gorgeously fresh mélange of black raspberry, cherry, tea, violets and anise scents introduces superbly well-detailed middle weight flavors that seem to be built on a base of firm minerality that continues onto the dusty, complex and strikingly persistent finish. As is often the case, this is the most complete wine in the range.

The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has that citrus-like freshness; that Seville orange marmalade trait that was tangible in a range of mature Clos des Ducs tasted the previous week. There are touches of violet that emerge with continued aeration. The palate is very feminine and refined, laid back almost, but that distracts from the structure underneath and the persistence and minerality on the finish. This is a regal, perhaps one should say, "ducal," Clos des Ducs that should drink beautifully over the next 25-30 years. But as I discovered at the vertical, this vineyard needs several years in the cellar.

Healthy dark red. Highly complex but youthfully restrained nose offers scents of black fruits, violet, chocolate, menthol and minerals, along with some faintly liqueur-like high tones. Boasts outstanding density of texture, not to mention great lift and power for this bottling, with almost exotic fruit ripeness leavened by strong acidity. Finishes with spectacular lingering perfume of violet, bitter chocolate, wild herbs and mint. An amazingly strong, bulletproof Volnay for the year- -or for any vintage, for that matter.

This red offers well- defined cherry, currant and spice flavors, supported by vibrant acidity. Saturated with pure, ripe cherry fruit midpalate, this firms up, yet remains balanced and mouthwatering on the long finish, showing spice and chalk accents. Best from 2018 through 2030.-B.S.