2012 Volnay Taillepieds 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville

(from a 1.07 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines; note that .4 ha was just grubbed up for replanting). A touch of reduction is just enough to shave the top notes off the otherwise pure and elegant nose so I would suggest decanting this if you're tempted to try a bottle young. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension and excellent delineation to the mineral-driven and overtly saline flavors that display fine depth on the impressively persistent and well-balanced finish that exhibits plenty of the classic austerity of a young Taillepieds. In the category of a very minor nit there is a hint of warmth but I quite liked this anyway.

Full, deep red. Vibrant aromas of wild cherry, spices and mocha. Juicy, sweet and stylish, conveying a distinctly sappy quality to its flavors of dark cherry and licorice. The superb building back end shows very firm tannins and a chocolatey whiplash of flavor. Great potential here. - Stephen Tanzer