2020 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne Domaine Rostaing Magnum

98P+: Almost pure perfection, the 2020 Côte Rôtie La Landonne just about jumps out of the glass and offers up utterly classic La Landonne aromatics of smoked black fruits, cassis, scorched earth, cured meats, and ground pepper, with more violet and floral nuances in the background. These all carry over to the palate, where the wine is full-bodied, dense, and powerful, with building tannins and an incredibly layered mouthfeel. It's not for the instant gratification crowd, but this is one seriously good Côte Rôtie.

Classically dark, brooding fruits, this has length and depth, with good balance even though the acidity is quite low. With its intense and muscular tannins, this is for the long term. Four weeks in tank, 18 months in oak (limited newoak), with natural yeasts and as many stems as possible.

Reasonably floral and red-fruited at the moment, the 2020 Cote Rotie la Landonne may not have the richness and power of the very best vintages, but it's still a terrific wine. Tasted as a barrel sample drawn just hours earlier, in addition to those violets and raspberries, it's also marked by the vineyard's characteristic dark notes of roasted meat, black olives and espresso, ample tannins and a long, silky-textured finish.