2022 Volnay Fremiets 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville

Although the vines for this Fremiets are very close to those for the Clos des Angles bottling, the style is very different – it is much more mineral, almost salty, with bright black fruit, notes of violets and spice, and a texture with abundant tannic grip and an almost chewy feel. The domaine farms nearly 1.6 hectares on the steeper slopes with shallow soils. Although it is not as reserved as the Clos des Ducs, this would benefit from five years of age before opening.

The 2022 Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru has more complexity and nuance on the nose compared to the Clos des Angles. Well-defined with discrete use of oak (10 to 15% new), gaining intensity in the glass but never fully letting go. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy, slightly chalky tannins on the entry, lending this Volnay tension. This has a fine bead of acidity and a dash of cracked black pepper mixed with sous-bois towards the finish. Give this a few years in bottle - very fine.

Mid crimson purple. The vineyard is just above Clos des Angles, and bears some similarity on the nose. However, the fruit is a little deeper, and darker on the palate, good acidity here, just a little more structure all round.

Offering up aromas of raspberries, plums, sweet spices and petals, the 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet is medium to full-bodied, pure and lively, with refined, powdery tannins and a fine-boned, elegant profile.

(from a 1.57 ha parcel). Aromas of kirsch, black raspberry, anise and plenty of spice nuances are trimmed in just enough oak to notice. The suave, palate coating and solidly concentrated flavors possess a richer and more generous mouthfeel where equally fine-grained tannins shape the less mineral-driven but slightly longer finish. In the context of what is typical, this is a relatively powerful Frémiets that is very much built to repay extended keeping.