2020 Volnay Fremiets 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville

Sikke et hop op ad rangstigen. Mange trin i intensitet og kompleksitet. Enorm næse med kirsch, rosenpeber, saltlakrids og perfekt modne røde ribs. Granatæble endda. Guillaume d’Angerville sværger til omstikninger og kritiserer faktisk tidens trend med en eller slet ingen omstikning. Pinot noir skal have luft, siger han. Fornem slank struktur og smukt ramt og fremskaffet syre i den tørre og varme årgang.

Pure purple fruits pop out on the nose. They are lifted by toast and vanilla bean. This is a surprisingly dense Volnay that comes from the bottom of Frémiet near Clos des Angles and that sits in a mere dusting of brown clay before the vines hit limestone slabs. The tannins are a bit punchy and the acidity lights up the palate. It wouldn't hurt to wait a few years for the zippiness to relax.

Fuller crimson purple, with an explosive ripe raspberry nose. I would not want this to be any riper, but am very happy with it as it is. There is a certain tension on the palate, possibly a touch of blood orange in the fruit mix, enough acidity, fine-grained tannins and good length. The vineyard is on a good slope here which may help the freshness.

The 2020 Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru has a perfumed bouquet with redcurrant, raspberry sorbet and sous-bois aromas that offers a subtle balsam element with time. The palate is well balanced, fresh and vibrant with crunchy red berry fruit. Good acidity here, classic in style with a linear finish, a hint of pepperiness on the aftertaste. Give this 4-5 years in bottle before broaching because it has an endearing feisty character.

The 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet offers up notes of sweet berries, cherries, rose petals, raw cocoa and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, bright and velvety, it's deep and concentrated, with powdery tannins and lively acids. As usual, this is a touch more structured than Les Angles, though it's far from forbidding.

(from a 1.57 ha parcel). A ripe yet cool and airy nose combines notes of red and dark raspberry, plum liqueur, sandalwood and a whiff of violet. There is again a beguiling texture to the sappy, even velvety, medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract that also buffers the moderately firm tannic spine supporting the impressively long finish. There is a bit more power compared to the Clos des Angles though this too is really quite refined. Lovely.