2010 Volnay Champans 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville

The 2010 Volnay Champans wafts from the glass with an ethereal, nearly weightless personality that is hard to describe. There is plenty of length and sensuality, but in a suspended state that seems to hover above the palate. The Champans is delicate, feminine and flat-out beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.

Good medium red. Knockout nose melds raspberry, minerals and flowers complicated by smoky soil tones. Sappy, intense and vibrant yet silky too, with an exhilarating rose petal quality to its red berry and mineral flavors; really captures the inner-mouth tension and precision of the vintage. Finishes with superb horizontal tannins and outstanding mounting length. Impeccably balanced from start to finish.

Lovely, scented ripe strawberry and raspberry nose. Spicy richness on the palate, delicious intensity, ripe and chewy with new oak blended in. Complex and seductive, with fine, structured tannins, excellent length and a mineral finish. For the long term. Drink 2014-2028.

A combination of cherry and berry fruit with sweet spice notes highlights this elegant, linear red. Balanced and sleek, offering a lingering aftertaste of fruit, spice and savory mineral accents. Best from 2016 through 2032.