2021 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Henri Boillot

(from both Chambolle and Morey fruit). A much more floral nose blends notes of dark currant, anise and a similar smoked meat component. The notably finer, indeed almost delicate, flavors possess deceptive density while delivering outstanding length on the balanced, firm and already nicely complex finale. Lovely and a wine that epitomizes ‘power without weight’.

The colour is a little more vivid crimson than Clos de Bèze, the nose altogether more backward. More in pure red fruit, less softly floral. Ultimately there is greater potential here. The fruit fills the mouth more evenly, lifted ripe strawberry, coasts to a very long graceful finish yet with discipline. Has brought all the delicacy with a natural finesse of the tannins.

The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has turned out beautifully, mingling aromas of red berries with notes of cinnamon, rose petals and bergamot in an inviting bouquet. Full-bodied, ample and seamless, it's pure and precise, with vibrant acids and a long, mineral finish.

The 2021 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is another attractive wine in this range from Boillot. Medium in body and nicely lifted, the Bonnes Mares has plenty of energy, if not quite the depth or textural resonance of the very best years. This is a decidedly small-scaled Bonnes Mares.