2019 Volnay 1. Cru Les Fremiets Henri Boillot

92+: More reserved than the Chevrets, Boillot's 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Frémiets mingles scents of raspberries and plums with hints of rose petals and spices. Medium-bodied, tangy and mineral, with a pretty core of fruit and fine, powdery tannins, it will reward a bit of bottle age.

The 2019 Volnay Fremiets 1er Cru has a delightful bouquet with vivacious Morello cherry and blueberry aromas underpinned by fine mineralité. The palate is well balanced with quite a spicy entry, a fine bead of acidity, finely structured but showing a slightly feral finish. I can abide that - this is a fine and dare I say, "fun" Volnay from Boillot.

A mix of older and younger vines, which together came in at 13.9%: the old vines on their own would have been higher. The colour is a particularly dense purple and the nose indicates very ripe grapes. A striking wine, but at the limit, with slightly drier tannins at the finish as well.