2014 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru Harmand-Geoffroy

Light but not invisible wood serves as a relatively neutral backdrop for the brooding and reserved dark berry liqueur aromas that are liberally laced with spice, underbrush and once again sauvage hints. Like the Lavaut, the bigger and more imposingly powerful flavors are tautly muscular with just as much minerality on the serious and equally built-to-age finish that displays some youthful austerity.

The Harmand-Geoffroy holdings cover six parcels in all, divided more or less equally between the high and low parts of Mazis. This is a dense, concentrated, ambitious wine, with plenty of oak, dark plum and blackberry fruit and ripe, but sturdy tannins. Needs time. 2022-30 .