2014 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires

The launch of Blanc des Millénaires 2004 and 2006 at 15 years of age and 2007 and 14 makes 2014 appear young at a full decade of age in its radiant, pale straw hue. The vector of purity presented by the top crus of the Côte des Blancs in this underrated season is magnificent, beautifully wrapped in the creamy, caressing texture and generosity that define Charles. There is an immediacy to this release that reflects a warm and dry harvest in beautifully seductive white peach, fig and all the magnificence of a decade of maturity in brioche, mixed spice and vanilla cream. It presents magnificent line and length, culminating a finish of glittering, showering chalk minerality.

The only Blanc des Millénaires made during Thierry Roset’s brief tenure as Cellar Master of Charles Heidsieck before his intimely death after the 2014 harvest. The wine was blended by Cyril Brun. It has seen less time on lees than previous 2007 and 2006 wines – between eight and nine years rather than 12 – but the decision feels apt for this beautifully delicate, bright and serene edition of one of Champagne’s top, if lesser-known, prestige blanc de blancs., emphasising purity over creamy richness. There are plenty of ripe aromatics, with fuzzy fragrant apricots, mandarins and even some fresh mango playing with hazelnut and coffee macaron complexity just starting to fire up. There’s a quiet, calm insistance to the palate, more similar to the 2004 than the tension and drama of the 2007 or the generosity of the 2006. It seems set to be one of the vintage’s top performers.

Complex biscuity, yeasty undertones to this blanc de blancs, along with crushed almonds, pears and apples. It’s fresh and beautifully integrated on the palate with silky and elegant layers, fine bubbles and attractive, lingering pastry character. Drink now or hold.

The eighth rendition of this cuvée, the 2014 Brut Blanc de Blancs Blanc des Millénaires evokes a complex, sweet bouquet of candied lemon, confit citrus, blanched almonds, brioche, honeycomb and ripe orchard fruits. Full-bodied, broad-shouldered and ample, it features a velvety attack and a vinous, fleshy core of fruit, with a textural mid-palate that leads to a spicy, long and delicate finish. This is a stunning new release of this cuvée, showcasing its depth and elegance.

Entirely Chardonnay, the bright straw/silver-colored the 2014 Champagne Blanc Des Millénaires has light reduction with beautiful smoky framing as well as notes of white peach, tangerine, fresh flowers, and chalky salinity. Medium-bodied, it has a refined mousse, a silky texture, and a long, elegant finish. It’s not an obvious wine at this stage, but it’s pleasing. It will benefit from time in bottle and drink well over the next couple decades. I like the fruitiness and freshness on the palate. It should pair well with shellfish.