2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1. Cru Clos St-Jacques Dom. Fourrier

The biggest, boldest and most ageworthy wine chez Fourrier, this comes from a parcel which is right next to Domaine Rousseau's. Black and red fruits, a lick of chalk and plenty of backbone and structure make this an outstanding interpretation of a Premier Cru that regularly outperforms some of Gevrey's Grands Crus. 2018-30.

Good dark red. Sexy aromas of raspberry, mocha and complex soil tones. Offers superb thickness of texture for the vintage but very restrained today, showing a strong sappy, saline character but little in the way of easy sweetness. Less detailed at present than the Combe aux Moines but this is fatter and riper. The saline quality carries through to the firmly tannic, very long finish. This wine will need time to reveal its floral high notes.

20% new oak. Vines planted 1900 and 1901. Notably deep crimson. Less obviously expressive than the Combe aux Moines. Very dense and mossy with many layers and rather a dry finish. Very sleek. Great sweetness on the front palate. Lots of introvert matter. Finish dry but great promise. So long. Drink 2026-2045.

The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques has real pedigree on the nose, with great tension with superbly defined red and black cherry fruit interwoven with both minerals and palpable tension. The palate is poised with crisp acidity: a pleasant saline touch and real intensity on the finish that fans out like a pianist hammering a final chord of a bravura performance. This might actually outperform Rousseau's Clos Saint Jacques in the long-term! Let's see...