2012 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes Fourrier

0.26 ha. Bittersweet and very full and ample with the tightness at the end. Marvellous! So clean and fresh. Transparent. No heavy.

The 2012 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from 0.26-hectares of vines planted in 1928. It is initially broody on the nose; sulky and withdrawn, biding its time as it opens in the glass, eventually revealing candied orange peel, raspberry, wild strawberry and just a hint of fresh apricots. The palate is medium-bodied with fine structure thanks to the tensile tannins. There is a wonderful sense of symmetry here with a gradual build towards the powerful finish. Yet overall, this is a nonchalant and self-effacing Griotte- Chambertin that is happy in its own skin.

Bright, deep red. Extremely primary, sappy nose shows outstanding lift to the aromas of raspberry, stone and rose petal. On the palate the wine's superconcentrated, utterly seamless texture is leavened by superb floral lift and stony perfume. Really compelling sweetness here, in the style of the vintage, but with great energy and lingering saline, stony perfume to enable this beauty to transcend the vintage. I usually find this grand cru tougher to taste in the early going than Fourrier's consistently splendid Clos Saint-Jacques, but this was a spectacular showing.- Stephen Tanzer

There are other Grands Crus in the cellar at Domaine Fourrier, but unlike this one they are made from purchased fruit and sold under the négociant label. This is the best wine at the domaine, as well as the most expensive. Like licking chalk, it's a very mineral red with stylish tannins, elegant, nuanced fruit flavours, harmonious oak and a finish that leaves the palate refreshed.