2012 Cepparello Fattorie di Isole e Olena Magnum

This is a landmark wine from Tuscany that continues to offer greatness even in the uneven vintages. The 2012 Cepparello is a gregarious and beautifully intense expression that speaks highly of this beautiful and somewhat isolated corner of the Chianti Classico appellation in Barberino Val d'Elsa. I must underline that this vintage is very different from the plump and extra round 2011 Cepparello that precedes it. In fact, I like the more austere style that is so confidently put on display in 2012. That streamlined power and forthcoming determination is well matched to the natural heft and density of this important Sangiovese-based wine. It shows excellent elegance, good tannin management and a somewhat trimmed down style. There's no extra fat here and the inner fruit stands tall as a result. The first vintage of Cepparello was made was 1980.