2010 Volnay 1. Cru Les Chevrets Henri Boillot

(from 25+ year old vines). This is perhaps the most elegant wine in the range with its plum, raspberry, cool red currant and agreeably spicy nose. The medium- bodied flavors possess a wonderfully silky and seductive mouth feel as the supporting tannins are exceptionally fine, all wrapped in a pure and lacy finish. This is very much cut from the cloth of classic Volnay as it is most decidedly a wine of finesse. In a word, gorgeous. 2018+

Mid crimson. Intense and cleverly sculpted. Lots here in excellent balance. Dry finish. There's a real beginning, middle and end to this wine. Bitter cherries.

The 2010 Volnay Les Chevrets emerges from the glass with a sweet, perfumed bouquet that melds into expressive dark fruit. This is a fairly immediate Volnay that should drink well with minimum cellaring despite its considerable energy and fleshiness. Floral notes add lift on the refined, chiseled finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.

Medium red. Explosive aromas of red berries, licorice, chocolate and underbrush. Not particularly fleshy but juicy and sharply delineated, with terrific cut to the tangy dark berry and spice flavors. Given its firm spine of acids and tannins, this Volnay also boasts lovely charm and delicacy. Finishes very long and perfumed. (Incidentally, Boillot believes that his 2010s will remain open, but I'd still give this wine at least five or six years in the cellar, as it's likely to put on weight in bottle.)