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Om Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux

Toppen af Vosne-Romanée - Den nye generation
Old School vs. New Generation Gamle og nye etiketter

Old School vs. New Generation

Arnoux-Lachaux er et historisk topdomaine i Côte-de-Nuits, som siden 1858 har lavet vin baseret i Vosne-Romanée og er nabo til Romanée-Conti.

De ejer fire Grand Cru-marker og flere prestigiøse 1. Cru’er. Unge Charles Larchaux er ved at konvertere domainet til biodynamisk og økologisk produktion, med Lalou Bize-Leroy som inspiratør, og det har sikret dem et væld af topratings fra vinanmeldere verden over.

Domainet var tidligere kendt som Domaine Robert Arnoux, men navnet er nu ændret til Arnoux-Lachaux. 

Domainet har været i familien Arnoux' eje siden 1858, og siden 2015 har sønnen, Charles Lachaux, stået i spidsen for vinene. Charles er uddannet ønolog og deltager i alle aspekter af produktionen.

Domainet råder over ikke færre end 14,5 hektar og vinene er lavet på traditionel vis, men med topmoderne udstyr. Her efterlades intet til tilfældigheder og alle druer er genstand for en nådesløs selektering, hvorfor Domainets "almindelige" Pinot Noir, er lavet delvis på druer fra deklassificerede druer fra de berømte marker.

 

Høsten 2020

 

2018 er første årgang fra Arnoux Lachaux (Charles) med de nye etiketter, designet af Charles' kone, Louise. Etiketterne skal signalere generationsskiftet og ændringerne i vinmarken og i kælderen. Charles går efter mere elegance og øget koncentration i vinene.

Dette betyder at vinene får væsentlig mindre fad, med et loft på 30%.

Svovltilsætningen vil praktisk talt blive elimineret i kælderen.

Økologiske og biodynamiske tiltag er implementeret i marken, med et fremtidigt ønske om at blive certificeret.

Charles er imod grøn høst, (at skærer klaser fra, for at reducere udbyttet og optimere koncentrationen i de tilbageværende klaser), hvorfor han vælger at beskære stokkene meget kort.

Charles er også gået tilbage til en delvis bush-vine vinifikation. Her lader man vinplanterne vokse som en busk. Dette mener Charles bidrager til en reduceret risiko for sygdomme i vinstokkene.

 

Bush Vines hos Arnoux Lachaux

 

Vinene fra 2018 er fermenteret i hele klaser, uden afstilkning, for at øge kompleksiteten, frugten og floraliteten i vinen.

Alle vinmarker vil fra 2020 være 100% upløjet.

 

Grand Cru & 1. Cru Aux Reignots

Grand Cru & 1. Cru Aux Reignots

Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru

Dette er en yderst sjælden Grand Cru fra en af de mest eftertragtede Grand Cruvine i Bourgogne, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux' andel af denne mark er 0,34 ha., beliggende blot 50 meter fra Romanée-Conti. Marken pløjes med hest for at skåne de 90 år gamle vinstokke. Vinen byder på en utrolig imødekommende bouquet af supermodne kirsebær, mokka og vanille. Smagen er meget fyldig og rig på moden frugt og er usædvanlig kompleks og superelegant med lag efter lag afsluttende med en mineralsk finish. Et monument som bør drikkes med andægtighed.

 

Echézeaux Les Rouges Grand Cru

Druerne til denne Grand Cru kommer hjertet af appellationen, fra et "lieu dit" (vinmark med navn) som kaldes Rouges du bas, beliggende midt på Echézeaux skråningen. Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux' andel af denne mark er 0,88 ha. og vinstokkene er ca. 60 år gamle. Vinen byder på en utrolig imødekommende bouquet af supermodne kirsebær, mokka og vanille. Smagen er meget fyldig og rig på moden frugt og er usædvanlig kompleks med lag efter lag. En meget stor vin.

 

Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux' andel af denne mark er 0,53 ha. og delt i 2 parceller, en parcel med 65 år gl. vins vinstokke og en parcel med 25 år gl. vinstokke. Domainets mark ligger i den øverste del af appellationen, omkranset af skov på 3 sider. Vinen byder på en utrolig imødekommende bouquet af supermodne kirsebær, mokka og vanille. Smagen er meget fyldig og rig på moden frugt og er usædvanlig kompleks og superelegant med lag efter lag afsluttende med en mineralsk finish.

 

Clos de Vougeot (Quartier Marei Haut) Grand Cru

Clos de Vougeot er en af de mest kendte Grand Cru vine fra Bourgogne, og mange danskere husker den sikkert fra både filmen og bogen Babettes gæstebud. Druerne til denne Grand Cru kommer fra et "lieu dit" (vinmark med navn) som kaldes Marais Haut beliggende meget tæt på det berømte slot. Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux' andel af denne mark er 0,45 ha. og vinstokkene er ca. 65 år gamle. Vinen byder på en utrolig imødekommende bouquet af supermodne kirsebær, mokka og vanille. Smagen er meget fyldig og rig på moden frugt og er usædvanlig kompleks med lag efter lag. En meget stor vin.

 

Vosne Romanée 1. Cru Aux Reignots

Her er tale om den nok mest kendte og kvalitetsorienterede 1. Cru mark i Vosne. Med blot 0.1846 hektar, producerer Arnoux Lachaux en mytisk vin. Arnoux' placering på marken er den absolut bedste, af alle 10 producenters beliggenhed. Mast helt ned i hjørnet, grænser Arnoux' plot op til både La Romanée og Richebourg.

1. Cru marken Aux Reignots er indbegrebet af kompleksitet og elegance. Vinen har en flot rubinrød farve, en finesserig bouquet af røde bær (især kirsebær) og en elegant fylde og kompleksitet. Vinen har fint afrundede tanniner og slutter silkeagtigt.

 

Se alle Philipson Wines spændende vine fra Arnoux Lachaux her.

 

2018 Ratings - Robert Parker

2018 Ratings - Robert Parker

"As I wrote last year, the thoughtful, intelligent and increasingly self-assured Charles Lachaux seems to gain in authority each time I taste with him, and my most recent visit prompted the same reflection. As readers will know by now, in the cuverie, wines that were once heavily extracted and lavishly oaked are now gently macerated, with significant percentages of whole clusters, and matured in mostly used barrels. In the vineyard, the evolution has been just as dramatic. The vines' canopies are now rolled, emulating the practice of Domaine Leroy, and a new parcel in Aux Reignots has been planted at a density of fully 20,000 vines per hectare. That's hugely labor-intensive, yet it appears to be paying off, as Lachaux is able to achieve a concentration in the vineyard that permits the most gentle of extraction in the cuverie" 

-William Kelley from Robert Parker

 

 

2019 Ratings - Jasper Morris (Inside Burgundy)

2019 Ratings - Jasper Morris (Inside Burgundy)

"In my 2019 Cote de Nuits report, I singled out one domaine from the illustrious list of producers visited: @arnoux_lachaux. The previous two vintages made it clear that Charles was starting to produce something special with audacious viticultural plans coherently translated into astonishing wines in the cellar. Anything he has done before has been totally eclipsed by his range of 2019s." 

 

"What can I say? Charles Lachaux’s interpretation of Burgundy through the family’s Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux works. These are unquestionably some of the most truly exciting young wines that I have ever tasted. He has very nearly got all the elements that he wants in place, though he is also realist enough to see that it will take a few years of fine-tuning and further experience really to show what both he and the vineyards are capable of. 2019 was the first vintage for which all the vineyards have been trellised high and not hedged at all. Half the vineyard area has been left unploughed (all in 2020), and the grapes have been vinified 100% with whole bunches, for a very short time (6.5 to 9 days depending on the cuvée), without any sulphur addition before racking. There is limited use of new oak (mostly from Stockinger) varying from 10% for village wines to 30% for the leading crus. Picking started on 10th September and was completed in 5 days (six including some negociant cuvées, not tasted) with miniscule yields of between 13 and 24 hl/ha. More importantly, all the wines bar one register between 12.55 and 12.97% alcohol, the exception just breaching 13%. With the possible exception of a certain domaine, where all the wines are grands crus, this was the single most exciting barrel tasting I have ever experienced. In a vintage where others have made gorgeous wines in a sumptuous style, these 2019s from Charles Lachaux are perhaps the most magical of all – and entirely deserve the epithet ethereal which I have used very sparingly elsewhere this year."

 
Red
55 Star Wine
2019, Bourgogne, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 89-91
This was the only wine in the cellar which had been racked, with a light sulphur adjustment, for bottling in November, and represents the largest yield at 24 hl/ha. The wine displays a lovely noble purple colour with the most gorgeous bouquet, finesse and sensibility. Tasted: October 2020
 
2019, Nuits-St-Georges, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 90-93
Noble purple in colour, with a fresh, deep pinot bouquet, supple on the palate, some oak, smooth and supple. My only query would be to what extent I can see the character of Nuits-St-Georges? Maybe, if these are Vosne side vineyards – which they are. Tasted: October 2020
 
2019, Chambolle-Musigny, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 91-93
Deeper dark purple with a delicious sensual pinot and peony aromatics, but with this lovely fresh tingle behind, the fruit slinking gracefully across the palate. Lovely, harmonious Chambolle-Musigny. Tasted: October 2020
 
2019, Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 91-94
From Aux Communes, Aux Saules and Bossières vineyards. No darker in colour than the Chambolle, no more succulent either but deeper, sterner even, a very complete expression of Vosne-Romanée. Tasted: October 2020
 
2019, Nuits-St-Georges Les Poisets, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 91-93
Lighter mid-purple, with a superb, heady, floral nose, getting towards readiness, dense red fruit here, fresh cherry, attractively ripe but so far from the sucrosity that can affect this vintage. Tasted: October 2020
 
55 Star Wine
2019, Vosne-Romanée Les Hautes Maizières, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 92-94
The Hautes Maizières displays the same fine colour and effortless bouquet as its predecessors in the line-up. In many ways this is a more restrained and more mineral wine, with a classical edge of purity alongside its natural power. Really long finish Tasted: October 2020
 
2019, Nuits-St-Georges Les Procès 1er Cru, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 92-95
Lovely mid crimson purple, this is a step up in concentration as we move to the 1ers crus. The falvour profile includes some grenadine, light chocolate notes behind, but predominantly red fruit. Intriguing and thrilling. Tasted: October 2020
 
2019, Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 1er Cru, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 91-94
Deeper colour with a rich sensual nose but less detail, less finesse. Purple fruit, the start of chocolate notes, lower acidity, but saved by the refinement from the whole bunch, and exceptional length. This is still a superb wine – just a fraction less magical than the best in this exceptional cellar. Tasted: October 2020
 
55 Star Wine
2019, Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Corvées Paget 1er Cru, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 93-97
Not the deepest in colour, but one of the most intriguing on the nose, with detail and style. Then a gorgeous surge of deep ripe red fruit, followed by the white pepper lift of the whole bunches and a long gracious finish. Tasted: October 2020
 
55 Star Wine
2019, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 95-98
Pronounced rich purple colour. The bouquet has exceptional potential without yet showing the detail. On the palate there is an ultra-intense coulis of black cherry fruit, very dark, but no sucrosity. More tannins, more structure than the previous wines, rendezvous in 10 years. Tasted: October 2020
 
55 Star Wine
2019, Echezeaux Les Rouges Grand Cru, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 96-98
Rich deep purple in colour. The Echezeaux displays a remarkably stylish bouquet, the polar opposite to the powerfully impressive Clos Vougeot. This is as it should be. This 2019 Arnoux-Lachaux is incredible, with a super-sensual touch here, but so much detail racing across the palate, dancing all the way, floral notes, exceptionally length. Charles adds that the Echezeaux always expresses itself well from the outset. Tasted: October 2020
 
2019, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 94-97
Medium deep crimson in colour, the Latricières-Chambertin has the misfortune to come across with a little heaviness after the ethereal Echezeaux, but then a wonderful floral note begins to emerge. Charles considers Latricières to be cerebral, a wine to take time over. It certainly offers weight and serenity, long and fine, though showing a trace of the barrel at the back. I may be judging this wine harshly. Tasted: October 2020
 
55 Star Wine
2019, Vosne-Romanée Les Grands Suchots 1er Cru, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 96-99
Brilliant crimson purple. The bouquet immediately speaks of Grand Cru quality in the same way that La Richemone now does from its two principal purveyors. This has so much of the elegance and energy of Echezeaux, but a much richer deeper pure red fruit, and such a pure and magnificent finish. Charles Lachaux has won the right to use the term Les Grands Suchots on the label and this wine demonstrates why this historical designation is merited. Tasted: October 2020
 
55 Star Wine
2019, Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 96-99
Charles Lachaux favours François Frères barrels here, for his 2.5 barrels of Romanée-St-Vivant. The colour is a pure purple with a blacker centre. The nose is so intense that you cannot see it all at one sniff, and during this short tasting we will not have enough time to dig out the full expression. There follows a magisterial suave mouthful, a thicker texture than what we have so far tasted, with huge weight right from the outset, clearly ripe grapes, a few strawberry notes - but detailed description of the fruit seems scarcely possible at this stage. Tasted: October 2020
 
55 Star Wine
2019, Vosne-Romanée Reignots 1er Cru, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
 98-100
Tasted from a François Frères barrel, 48 months air-dried wood, with a very light but very long toast. This vineyard is now in its 6th year of tressage, without hedging. “Quel joli parfum”, he says inadequately, because this is incredibly fine, the finest in the cellar. Completely heartbreakingly suave and sensational, totally justifying its position at the end of the line-up here. Crisply ripe cherries, alpine strawberry, the lightest raspberry touch, then a generous pure clear long finish. Tasted: October 2020
 

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