2017 Champagne Le Cran Ludes 1. Cru Bérêche et Fils

The 2017 Extra-Brut Le Cran is a bit soft in this release. Apricot, chamomile, dried flowers and spice open first, followed by tropical overtones and a kiss of reduction. Overall, this is a fine effort in a very challenging vintage.

The 2017 Le Cran Ludes Premier Cru, produced from equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay sourced from three parcels in Ludes, is typically among the most dependable offerings from Bérêche. The vines, rooted in shallow soils with a mere 30 centimeters of topsoil above chalk bedrock, benefit from both western and eastern exposures. Disgorged in July 2024 with a dosage of three grams per liter, the wine opens with an expressive bouquet of pear, honeysuckle and rye bread, mingling with toasted nuts and exotic fruit. On the palate, it is generous and charming, marked by tangy acidity and a vivid saline touch. While it doesn’t quite attain the crystalline purity and precision of Le Cran in less disease-challenged vintages—2017 being particularly difficult for Pinot Noir—it nonetheless represents a commendable achievement.