2014 Volnay Fremiets 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville

Comparatively backward by its usual standards, this is verging on the austere at the moment, but beneath the carapace of tannin and oak, the fruit is subtle, refined and charming with red berry sweetness on the finish. A wine that needs time to come together. 2018-27 .

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets has a glorious nose that has mustered a little more va-va-voom since I tasted it from barrel last year. It lets rip with Morello cherries, fresh strawberry and a pastille-like purity. It is a very winsome bouquet, well defined and gains intensity on the glass. The palate is more conservative than the aromatics. It is well structured, the tannins slightly chalky in texture, the acidity nicely judged with a gentle grip on the finish. Whilst it does not have the persistence of the best premier crus from d'Angerville, there is an effortless nature to this Volnay.