2017 Barolo Ginestra Vigna del Gris Conterno Fantino

This is extremely perfumed with rose petal and orange zest to the ripe-strawberry and cherry character. Full and intense palate with layers of fruit and firm, dusty tannins. Chewy at the finish, but there’s plenty of fruit. Try after 2025.

93P+: I always love the purity of aromas delivered in wine from this 1.8-hectare site with loose, well-draining soils in the celebrated Ginestra cru of Monforte d'Alba. The Conterno Fantino 2017 Barolo Ginestra Vigna del Gris boasts a slightly more delicate and finessed aromatic approach with tighter weaving and an almost fragile personality. However, the warm 2017 vintage conditions do their part to build up the concentrated power and fruit weight of this Barolo. I found this wine to be more reticent in terms of mouthfeel; however, that may be a reflection of my early tasting. I'd love to come back and visit this wine at the 10-year mark and later.

The 2017 Barolo Ginestra Vigna del Gris is classic Gris. Bright, focused and taut in feel, 2017 offers up a whole range of floral and spice top notes that give the wine terrific freshness. On the palate, the Gris is a bit nervous, as it always is, yet with superb balance and class. The tannins can be a bit edgy here, but the 2017 keeps everything in check. This is such a pretty wine.