2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Val de Dieu Château de Vaudieu

Tasted blind. Liquorice and leather on the nose, edged with clove spice. Sweetly-spiced palate with furry tannins and a fairly short finish. Attractively savoury without being severe. (RH) Drink 2021-2036.

The 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Val De Dieu is always the most modern style wine in the lineup and in 2017 is a blend of 66% Grenache and 34% Syrah that had the Grenache brought up in demi-muids and the Syrah in new barrels. Deep, saturated purple-colored, with notes crème de cassis, ground pepper, bouquet garni, and crushed flowers, it's medium to full-bodied and concentrated, with subtle background oak and a great, great finish. It's another brilliant example of this cuvée that will benefit from short-term cellaring and cruise for 15 years or more.

Vivid magenta. A wild, highly perfumed bouquet displays spice- and mineral-accented cherry, black raspberry, smoked meat and potpourri scents that expand steadily with air. Sweet and broad in the mouth, offering densely packed bitter cherry, dark berry and succulent herb flavors that tighten up on the back half. Shows less polish than I expect from Vaudieu, but not in a bad way. Finishes very long and smoky, with resonating florality and youthfully gripping tannins.

A beauty, with creamy raspberry, boysenberry and blackberry fruit flavors gliding atop a polished structure, while anise, bergamot, fruitcake and cinnamon notes filter through on the finish like dappled morning light. Reveals a subtle minerally echo at the very end. Thoroughly beguiling. Best from 2020 through 2035.