2016 Lavaux St. Jacques 1. Cru Magnum Dom. Frédéric Esmonin

A classic Gevrey nose is comprised by brooding dark berry fruit aromas that are cut by notes of humus, freshly turned earth, underbrush and a whiff of game. There is more size, weight and power to the tension and mineral-filled middle weight plus flavors that conclude in a rustic and youthfully austere finale. As is virtually always the case with a good quality Lavaut, this is going to need time. 91/2026+ .

Good bright, dark red. Pure aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, licorice and minerals, plus a whiff of violet. A step up in sweetness, intensity and pliancy from the Champonnets but still youthfully firm and a bit wound-up, conveying a distinctly savory character to its dark berry, mineral and soil flavors. Finishes with suaver tannins than the Champonnets--and more length. But this may need longer in the cellar in spite of its superior finishing sweetness.