2015 Saint-Joseph Rouge Vignes de L'Hospice Guigal

Seductive complexity with plenty of spicy oak played into fragrant, peppery and spicy blackberries. Plenty of smoked meat and graphite, lots of cloves and very powerful, dark plums, blackberries and mocha on the palate. The tannins are superb. Drink in 2022.

The most impressive vintage of this wine I can recall tasting, the 2015 Saint-Joseph Vignes de l'Hospice is an awesome Saint-Joseph. Visitors to the region can easily spot the steep vineyard just above the town of Tournon when looking across the Rhône from Tain l'Hermitage. Aged in 100% new oak, the wine still shows hints of cedar and vanilla on the nose but also notes of crushed stone and black cherries. It's full-bodied but kept in check by a touch of granite-like austerity that gives the palate shape and length, while the firm tannins glide away in a silky wash on the finish. Almost approachable now, I suspect it will drink well through at least 2035.

(raised in new oak barrels for 30 months) Lurid violet. Expansive aromas of blue fruit preserves, black pepper, violet and star anise, backed by hints of olive and incense. Fleshy, broad and sweet, offering deeply concentrated black and blue fruit, spicecake and floral pastille flavors that are lifted and brightened by a smoky mineral nuance. Supple and appealingly sweet on the strikingly long, floral-driven finish, which is framed by smooth, fine-grained tannins. Drink: 023-2030.

This ripples with stunning raspberry and boysenberry coulis flavors, inlaid liberally with anise and apple wood notes and carrying through a well-defined finish. Lush in feel overall, with a mocha note draped over everything, keeping terrific energy in reserve. Best from 2020 through 2030. From France.-J.M.

Lukket duft, ulmende med ren, mineralsk mørk frugt, stor race, balanceret med en perfekt balance mellem frugt og eg. Herlig frisk, krydret tone med sort peber. Rank, rig, stor frisk frugt, smuk struktur, stor race og lang, rig, mineralsk eftersmag med stor, stor mørk frugt.