2015 Roda Cirsion Rioja

Roda didn't make its top wine in 2013 or 2014, but it has released a stunner in 2015, made from a selection of the winery's best old vines, not just parcels. At 14%, Graciano is making its largest contribution yet, adding backbone to an ambitious wine that's structured, dense and richl oaked with sinewy tannins, ripe black fruits and the acidity to age gracefully. 2021-32.

The top of the range is only produced in some vintages, so we are already with the very young 2015 Cirsion-they didn't produce it in 2013 or 2014, so the 2015 is the next vintage after 2012. And starting with the 2012, it seems like the style of Cirsion is going to have a significant percentage of Graciano, at least in the warmer vintages. It is a juicy, layered, hedonistic, spicy and voluptuous modern Rioja from a perfect year for ripeness and with some Mediterranean influence; it might challenge the phenomenal 2005. In this vintage, the blend includes 14% Graciano, which is higher than the 2012, and prior to that, it was only Tempranillo. The selected grapes went through natural fermentation, and they reckon the tannins are ripe enough to only need some eight months in oak, brand new French barrels in this occasion. It's very fruit-driven, heady, ripe, open, aromatic and intoxicating. This is very different from the rest of the wines in the portfolio, a lot more modern, juicy, chewy and, in the last couple of vintages, with the added freshness provided by the Graciano. They think this is a wine that will be long lived in bottle, but most of the bottles are drunk early on, when the profile is exuberant. One day I will have to do a Cirsion vertical... 5,078 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2017. 2019 - 2030.

Cocoa, licorice and graphite notes frame cherry, plum, black olive and loamy earth flavors in this polished red. Firm, well-integrated tannins and fresh acidity give this muscle and balance. Harmonious and graceful. Drink now through 2030.-T.M.