2013 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline Côte-Blonde Guigal

Encore en élevage, cette cuvée délivre un parfum qui évoque le moka. Un vin bien typée Blonde (terroir du sud) avec pas moins de 11% de viognier complanté avec du syrah. Il est vinifié avec des raisins aux deux tiers éraflés. Il possède une grande délicatesse de texture, avec un sentiment de maturité pleine d'où ce soyeux et une belle persistance sur la finesse.

Hickory smoke, violets, tobacco, black- cherry fruit, pepper and a touch of stemmy herbal character. Super-fine tannins, and quite light body with a finish that isn't as expansive as the palate. Still young, so the length may well develop. (RH) 13.5% Drink 2019-2033.

An array of sweet-smelling spices and a green-ish pepper edge to the nose with plenty of dark plums, crushed dark violety florals and grilled raisin toast. The palate has smooth, sweeping tannins that build in waves of pastry- like, plush and velvety texture. Long blood plum and creamy espresso finish. Drink now and beyond.

One of the more restrained and fresh vintages of this cuvée out there, the 2013 Côte Rôtie La Mouline still has a classic Mouline floral, gamey, and spicy bouquet to go with medium to full-bodied richness and depth on the palate. With good concentration, notable complexity, sweet tannin, and plenty of length, it needs 3-4 years of bottle age and will keep for 15+.

Tight, unevolved and borderline backwards (which is rare for this cuvée), the 2013 Côte Rôtie La Mouline is a wine that reminds Marcel Guigal of the 2006. It offers a terrific perfume of spiced red and black fruits, violets, lots of minerality and even a hint of damp forest floor to go with a full-bodied, elegant, seamless style on the palate. It's not the most massive wine in the lineup, but it has terrific purity, fine, polished tannin and beautiful length. It should dish out ample pleasure over the coming 20 years.

Very ripe, with layers of fig, boysenberry and plum compote forming the core, inlaid liberally with licorice snap, roasted apple wood and Turkish coffee notes. Shows lots of heft, but everything pulls together on the finish, exhibiting drive and definition. Best from 2020 through 2040. From France.-J.M.