2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1. Cru Champ Gain La Vougeraie

A fuller colour but bright and even with a slight green reflection. Some reductive tension to the nose. Promising. There is more volume here than most wines in this flight, with fresh apple notes and a steely intensity. Fine persistent finish.

Very fresh aromas consist of just sliced Granny Smith apples and lemon zest aromas are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. There is once again a lovely sense of underlying tension to the racy, mineral-driven and focused flavors that are presently somewhat lean though this may well flesh out in time.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain 1er Cru was clouded by some reduction on the nose, though I feel there is good fruit underneath. The palate is simple, offering red apple, touches of nectarine and a hint of peach. A lilting Puligny without any major ambitions, yet clean and pure with a lot of extract. Just give this 2–3 years to address the aromatics. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.