2016 Barbaresco Montestefano Ris Magnum Produttori Barbaresco

The 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is another profound wine in this lineup. There is virtually no perception of tannin, as the fruit is so rich and so voluptuous. Dark cherry/plum fruit, spice, menthol, licorice and a whole range of balsamic inflections grow as the Montestefano shows off its class. This profound Barbaresco will thrill readers for years to come.

This is usually the last wine in this series of nine, representing the most powerful and concentrated side of the Nebbiolo spectrum as interpreted by Produttori del Barbaresco. The 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano (with 12,516 bottles released) is rich and darkly saturated, with a plush and opulent bouquet that is redolent of red berry, dried raspberry and candied orange peel. This is a blend of fruit from vineyards owned by the Gonella, Maffei, Marcarino, Rivella, Rocca and Vacca families. You feel the density of the wine on the palate, thanks to firm tannins and lots of extra fruit weight and texture. Despite that extra muscle (and the usual 15% alcohol content), Montestefano also shows a soft and especially enriched personality.

Montefico og Asili i combination. Kalkstensvin, der minder om de bedste udgaver af Vigna Rionda i Giacosas tid, bortset fra at jeg aldrig smagte dem da de blev releaset, men først i modne udgaver. Syd-sydøstvendt og skærmet fra både floden og nordenvind af Monteficos højderyg lige nordfor. Moden nebbiolo når det er mest fornemt med tranebærjuice, bitter rønnebær, vaniljeagtig slåenkerne, de reneste noter af boblesaft fra Ebeltoft Gårdbryggeri, mentol, kongen af Danmark, en luftig malstrøm, brusende, men parfumeret. Kraftfuld selvsagt, bidsk tannin, modenfrisk syre, men først og fremmest en vin, der nydes oppe i mund- og næsehulerne. Nærmest blodappelsin og etiopisk kaffe i eftersmagen. En af de dygtigste unge barbarescoer jeg nogensinde har smagt.