2015 Barbaresco Pajé Riserva Produttori del Barbaresco

One of the highlights in this series, the 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè is marked by bright acids and expressive veins of spiciness that lend a much needed kick of energy to a core of translucent Nebbiolo fruit. Dark cherry, menthol, licorice, dried flowers and pine all develop in the glass. The combination of ripeness and saline-infused energy makes the Pajè one of the more complete wines in this range. There is so much to admire here. 2022 - 2040.

Violet, new leather, perfumed berry and a whiff of face powder mingle together with camphor on this fragrant red. On the structured, polished palate, taut, refined tannins support succulent Morello cherry, mulberry and licorice. It's already tempting, but hold for even more complexity.

This is a small vineyard close to the village of Barbaresco, and its limestone-dominant soils usually give wines that are bright and floral - this wine meets that expectation. The nose shows intensity and purity, with piercing red fruit aromas. It's supple on the attack, bright but weighty, and very concentrated. Lively acidity gives the finish tension and persistence. Elegant and long. Drinking Window 2020 - 2036.

The Produttori del Barbaresco 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè shows a heavier center of gravity (compared to the Pora) with thicker concentration of dark fruit at the middle. The jump is not big, but it is noticeable, like one step up a ladder. This wine produces more ferrous earth and iron ore with plenty of dark fruit. The mouthfeel is less complicated and shorter too in this vintage, although the tannins feel firm and prominent. Between Pora and Pajè, I'd give a slight edge to Pora. Some 10,000 bottles were released.

A beam of fresh cherry and plum plays out over a line of earth, tar and licorice in this round and open red, with well-integrated tannins for support. Shows excellent balance and length and should be approachable soon. Best from 2023 through 2040. -B.S.