2014 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir Martinborough

A pinot noir of elegance and refinement that encompasses a core of deep complexity, founded on black cherry and blackberry fruit, even a shadow of cassis, rippling with layers of exotic spice. From the family-owned estate's oldest vines planted from 1980, this is a wine of silky, seductive structure, yet confidently enduring tannins, filling a palate of impeccable line and undeviating length. A brilliant, seductive and delightful Ata Rangi.

An open, easy to approach wine despite having a focussed core of intense fruit. The mouthcoating tannins have a fine pinprick-like texture and, in combination with succulent acidity, create a finely drawn-out conclusion. This is a very relaxed wine with a savoury expression that lingers on the medium-length finish.

As ever this has an extra dimension and remains the high watermark for New Zealand pinot noir to be measured against. How do they do it: complete and uncompromised dedication to the cause, combined with an early play to make the most of the available land in a young region, as well as the ability to attract talented and dedicated people such as winemaker Helen Masters to the cause. Already entrancingly complex, the wine has a brambly array of cherry and summer berry fruits in addition to blueberries, some spicy saffron and earthy nuances. It's totally composed and still able to deliver a sense of aromatic purity amid web-like complexity. As you swoon into the first mouthful, it takes total control and is plush and layered with an air of playful luxury. The center billows soft and deceptively airy, finishing in a run of succulent, fresh and satisfying tannins that leave you breathless. Drink now to 2025+ .

Still rather firm in texture, the 2014 Pinot Noir offers up leafy, tomato-like notes that are nicely balanced by black cherries and earth. It's medium to full- bodied, then turns velvety on the long finish, with at least another decade of life ahead of it. 2019 - 2030.