2012 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir Martinborough

Ata Rangi normally use a significant percentage of whole bunch grapes in the fermentation but this year all of the grapes were destemmed. Silken textured wine with cherry, plum, mineral and a trademark savoury/herb character. Elegant wine with subtle power evidenced in its very lengthy finish. A very good example from one of the country's very best producers. It clearly shows great cellaring potential although I must say I enjoyed the leftover wine with roast lamb.

A season like no other. Yields were low after poor flowering weather. The cold spring meant that vines were 1-2 weeks behind in growth, a similar pattern to the start of 2010. The marked difference though was the lower sunshine hours. Soil moisture levels were high due to recurring rain. Saving the day, April really pulled one out of the bag. Although days were not particularly hot, there was enough sunshine to slowly accumulate flavour and to round and soften the tannins and phenolics, producing elegant wines with slightly lower alcohols. GDD 950. Coolest season for a long time. But a settled autumn. Mid cherry red. Compact with a real sense of depth and much more to come. Has the classic Ata Rangi smoky/savoury aroma along with the still-fresh fruit and more spice here. Juicy and rich-fruited on the palate and mouth-watering on the long finish. Stony/mineral aftertaste. (JH) Drink 2016-2025.

Here the cooler year was expressed as a finer, fragrant pinot for Ata Rangi with bright perfume, orange zest, pomegranate, light red and pink fruits, meaty, savory elements and a distinctive peppery edge. The oak is very fragrant too. Quite tightly cut on the palate, this is built on layered, ripe tannins and a bright, acidic crunch that holds quite evenly _ this will fill out nicely in the years ahead. Drink in 2018.

Pale to medium ruby-purple, the 2012 Pinot Noir exudes expressive notes of red currants, Bing cherries and pomegranate with hints of cedar, tea leaves, soil and underbrush. Medium bodied and quite tightly wound on the palate, it give layers of red berry and earthy flavors supported by grainy tannins and finishing with wonderful persistence. This is a very elegant / delicate expression of this label.

This looks to be among the best vintages for this wine, or at least it's one of the most flattering to taste young. Stunning floral notes emerge from the glass, wrapped in ripe black-cherry scents. On the palate, it's slightly plummier, but still retains those exciting rose-petal nuances and folds in hints of spice and earth. Despite the evident suppleness, there's a sense of weight and structure that suggests ageability as well. Drink 2015-2022.

Strikes a terrific balance between vibrant cherry and berry flavors and more savory elements of forest floor, white pepper, eucalyptus and dried tobacco. The muscular tannins impart solid grip on the finish. Drink now through 2025. M.W.