2010 Bollinger Champagne Vieilles Vignes Francaises

Vieilles Vignes Française is one of Champagne's rarest, most legendary and most distinctive cuvées. It is the product of two tiny plots, Clos Saint- Jacques and Chaudes Terres, together just 0.36 hectares, adjacent to the house within Aÿ, maintained in memory of the way champagne was grown pre-phylloxera: non-grafted and non-trelissed, in the traditional 'en foule' (without order) layering system, worked entirely by hand and sometimes by horse. Dense planting and severe pruning reduces yields by as much as one-third, producing particularly ripe and concentrated juice. It's always the first vineyard that Bollinger harvests, and usually a special dispensation must be requested to harvest before picking is officially open. The aim is to harvest at 11 or 11.5 degrees potential, not over 12 or 13, to create a cuvée of power with personality and yet balance, freshness and approachable drinkability. The first Vieilles Vignes Françaises since 2007, this is a young release for VVF, launched before the 2009 and 2008. I was privileged to join the winemaking team for the dosage trial, tasting 2g/L, 4g/L, 6g/L and 8g/L blind. Every time I experience such an exercise, I am staggered by the profound impact that such small differences in dosage makes, even on a wine as commanding as VVF; 4g/L was their choice (and mine). The sheer confidence of VVF is enrapturing, abounding with the inimitable presence of its unique sites and unusual method. It declares its presence in a full yellow hue, red Burgundy-like expansiveness and a peacock's-tail flourish of theatrical proportions. In volume and sheer persistence it takes champagne to an altogether higher plateau, layered with magnificent complexity of golden delicious apples, golden syrup and ginger, abounding in layers of generosity unexpected at such a young age: truffles, pipe smoke and exotic spice. Its ripeness brings a gentle phenolic texture, which has been expertly controlled, meshing in comfortably with pronounced, fine salt minerality. A VVF of profound strength, if not the fitness of the great seasons.

The 2010 Vieilles Vignes Françaises dazzles from the very first impression with striking aromatic presence and utterly captivating balance. Mirabelle, sweet red cherry, jasmine and passion fruit are some of the many notes that give the 2010 its decidedly racy, exotic personality. The 2010 exudes rare energy for this vintage, which was hardly easy in the field, not to mention real pedigree. It is absolutely unforgettable. I only hope to have a chance to taste it again someday.